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I couldn't really find an answer to my particular question in the previous Posts. But my question is, Can a pair of Mikuni BS34 Constant Velocity carburetors be properly Jetted for pods and a more open exhaust, or do i HAVE to use some sort of air box? Im not doing straight pipes but i do want a lower, meaner exhaust with a high flow baffle. I have the ability to make a new more low profile air box if needed, but i would prefer the performance and look of pods.

Plus it just seems like it would be easier and take a little less time to just Re-Jet carbs to get the right performance. I have been told by a few people to just find a better fitting, low profile air-box and an exhaust to match the flow of the air-box and to fine tune the idle from there and i will be fine.

Or would you guys say otherwise? Thanks, JoeBob. All carbs can run open/pods/velocity stacks or box. Just know when you open air flow you just enriched the air mixture.so to create balance, I suggest one of two things. Open the pilot mixture screws another turn to about 1.5 more or less out to allow more air fuel mixture, or leaving that alone and bumping up the main jet one or two sizes higher than stock. Most likely one size up since you are not running fully open pipes, but two sizes if you change to open.

Two sizes may be best because you can just adjust the A/F mixture screw to compensate if too much. Of course if the pod is really the only change as in pipes still have restriction, and the EPA nanny shit is staying, then just slap on the pods and put your A/F screws to 2.5 turns out and see where she stands.

If lean back the screws out a bit if rich turn them in. I'd stay away from premade jet kits those are an over priced option and are rarely plug and play, the 'stages' where created to just bilk out more cash.stage 1 to 100 or whatever can be done all at once.no need for stages.

That being said, I find that this place linked below sell jets cheap and with none of the nonsense involved to mark them up in price. You can go local too if you want them quicker. Find out what the stock main is then get one two sizes up example if yours is a #98 a #100 would be one size up etc. And maybe one size up for pilots for future mods.if this is it then just the up 2 sizes on mains. Many people go way way more than they need too on upping jets if stock calls for a #98 going to a #128 is just silly and harder to tune around and actually can hurt performance. Going by the carb number seems logical to find the jet sizes; but you have to go by bike model.

Simply because the same carbs were used on different bikes, and they were jetted to match the needs of that particular engine. For your bike model that carb had factory jet settings of 17.5 pilot and 115 main. I'm not sure what it has in it now however.it's a lot of years is a long time for a bikes carbs to go without being cracked and changed at some point, stock jets may be in it but may not be. The type of jets needed for this carb are pilot Mikuni VM22, and main is a Mikuni Small round.

Research into this model's head design and into a few boards bring good pod jetting brings it to a 40 pilot and 137.5 main.for best performance and fuel economy. If you don't care so much about fuel economy but lean towards more performance then a 50 pilot and 145 main. This of course takes into account of removing the epa crap etc.

Usually up two sizes on the main is a rule of thumb when going to pods/pipes/and emission deletes to run well. But the porting and flow characteristics in the head design can change that rule of thumb drastically which in this case it does.mainly because it was later ported to the 500 model. Typically any bike platform that was ported to another model using the same carbs companies just increased those jet sizes, so going by the larger platforms stock jets numbers then finding the best numbers for unrestricted can yield the best jets over all for the motor. That's why these numbers are so drastically apart, from the standard rule of thumb of up two sizes.the head porting never changed between models.

But those are my suggestions, based on what you want out of it.a performance oriented speed demon that brings MPG down to about 45 or still fast but easier on the wallet in regards to MPG. They are usually stamped on the top side, sometimes on the edge. Many times on dirty carbs they are too tarnished to read. Dip a cotton swab in a little acetone and rub it on the jet it'll take that shit off quick and easy to see if that's the case. If you have no idea then you can pick up a gauge tool, it looks like a feeler gauge but it has wire to find the sizes. Of course the cost of that tool might fall the same as new jets so it doesn't matter if you're buying new ones anyway.